In a nostalgic culinary revival, beef tallow is once again taking center stage in Central Pennsylvania kitchens. Brad Livezey, the owner of Dough n Joe, has embraced this traditional ingredient for frying his signature homemade doughnuts. His establishments in Hampden Township and Mechanicsburg have joined the ranks of well-known chains like Steak ‘n Shake, Outback Steakhouse, and Popeyes, all of which are also adopting this cooking method.
After conducting thorough research, Livezey concluded that beef tallow is not only healthier but also delivers a richer flavor compared to the soy-based vegetable oil blend he previously utilized. “Tallow is pretty pure. They don’t do much to it. It’s going back to what our ancestors used for cooking,” Livezey remarked, adding that the doughnuts now have a delightful savory taste and a crispy texture.
Beef tallow, which is rendered beef fat processed into a solid form, is experiencing a resurgence. Once avoided due to concerns surrounding heart health, its renewed popularity can be attributed to a combination of flavor, a sense of nostalgia, and a growing backlash against seed oils.
Historically, beef tallow was a staple in American kitchens until the late 20th century when its high saturated fat content prompted fears about cardiovascular disease. Notably, in 1990, McDonald’s discontinued using beef tallow for frying their fries. This current trend has garnered influential advocates, including Health and Human Services Secretary Robert F. Kennedy Jr., who has long campaigned for the eradication of ultra-processed seed oils from American food. Kennedy posted on Instagram: “Seed oils are one of the most unhealthy ingredients that we have in foods. We need to Make Frying Oil Tallow Again.”
Supporters of beef tallow argue that seed oils—like corn, grapeseed, sunflower, and canola—contribute to a range of health problems, including inflammation and chronic diseases such as obesity and diabetes. In response to this shift, numerous food manufacturers, including Realgood Foods Co., which specializes in frozen breaded chicken products, have incorporated beef tallow into their recipes. Even the beauty industry is getting in on the action, as some people use tallow in their skincare routines.
However, this newfound enthusiasm for tallow has sparked debates among nutritionists. Many argue that vegetable oils are healthier alternatives compared to animal-based fats like lard and butter. Martha Belury, a food science professor at Ohio State University, expressed her confusion over the negative perception of seed oils, stating, “I don’t know where it came from that seed oils are bad.”
Caitlin Dow, PhD, a senior nutrition scientist at the Center for Science in the Public Interest, pointed out that while beef tallow may boast a traditional appeal, it is not a health food, cautioning that a single tablespoon of beef tallow can meet or exceed the recommended daily limit for saturated fat intake.
Despite the controversy surrounding its health implications, Livezey reports that the shift to using beef tallow has significantly enhanced his business. He mentioned that one customer even traveled an hour just to try the doughnuts. After tasting them, this customer declared them the best doughnuts in town.
Admittedly, this switch has caused a stir among certain customers, particularly vegetarians and vegans. Livezey noted, “We might have lost a few vegetarians, but I’m not worried about it. The six vegetarians I lost, I gained 100 new customers. We made up the difference with a whole new ballgame of people.”
Encouraged by the positive response, Livezey convinced his friend Vinny Epifanotto, who owns Amici Pizza in Hampden and Lower Allen townships, to explore the tallow trend. Epifanotto revealed that he was already contemplating the switch when Livezey reached out to him. Amici Pizza now incorporates tallow for frying a variety of items, including fries, wings, and chicken.
To inform patrons of the change, a message has been posted on the front doors of the Amici shops. Epifanotto remarked, “It’s less inflammatory than your traditional frying oils. It fries everything crispier. You can notice the flavor on my french fries, my mozzarella sticks, and especially my chicken wings. The skin on my chicken wings is nice and crisp.”
Since implementing tallow into their cooking, business at Amici Pizza has flourished. Epifanotto reported a staggering increase in sales, now selling approximately 13 cases of french fries weekly—up from just five to six cases. “We’re getting nothing but love,” he said proudly.
While beef tallow is pricier than traditional cooking oils—costing between $1 and $1.50 per pound compared to 60-70 cents for vegetable oils—restaurant owners believe its longevity offsets the higher expense. Despite the increased cost, neither Dough n Joe nor Amici Pizza has raised their prices, with Epifanotto asserting, “With the volume of sales, and I hope it continues, raising prices doesn’t make any sense, because the volume is there.”
